FAQs for July 2010
FAQs are representative of the common questions that come into our information desk and our online info services. We'll update this regularly, then put all the questions in an archive, so come back soon!
“I have a lot of clover I want to get rid of. What can I do?” July 2010
To tackle that question, I need a little bit more information. Is the clover in a space by itself? Is it amongst the lawn? Amongst other plants, such as your perennial beds? Under shrubbery?
If the clover is mixed into your lawn there are products that can kill the clover without hurting the lawn. These are called selective herbicides.
If you use one, make sure to read and follow the directions; it is possible to hurt the lawn (or yourself, for that matter) if it is misused. Also, make sure the lawn itself is hydrated and not severely stressed. These products should only be applied in dry weather during moderate temperatures (above 60 deg F, below 85 deg F). Also, I cannot recommend the use of herbicides near waterways.
Note that mowing higher can help the grass to compete with the clover. Also, be aware that the presence of some clover actually helps the grass to grow better by fixing nitrogen from the air, improving the grass’ ability to keep growing.
If the clover is alone, smothering it, taking the top layer of soil off and replacing it, or using a spray such as round-up can get rid of it. Also, weed block fabrics can be laid down in a non-garden area to keep it weed free. This can also work around established trees and shrubs, though it is not so great in perennial/annual beds.
If it is amongst desirable flowers, there is not much you can do except keep weeding. Try to get the clover roots up where possible. Also, keep in mind that any perennials that grow significantly taller than clover will not really suffer from its presence, although tolerating such clover can be inviting it to spread of course.
“My hydrangea is not blooming this summer, but seems otherwise healthy? Why?” July 2010
The main issue here is pruning. When most hydrangeas are cut back in the dormant season, or even late in the past growing season, they are not likely to flower on the cut stems the following summer. Hydrangeas generally should not be pruned like a hedge or many other summer flowering shrubs.
For this reason, some people recommend a three year pruning cycle, where any healthy stem less than three years old is not pruned at all, and any that are three years old or older are removed entirely during the winter. The un-pruned shoots will flower the following summer, and the removed stems will be replaced by new fresh shoots near the base of the plant, which will flower once they have matured for a year. Good culture and an all-purpose fertilizer during the growing season will stimulate the growth of these new canes.
See our feature on Hydrangeas
Cissus discolor
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