Irrigation

At the other end of the spectrum, established trees and large shrubs might not need any irrigation, or at most an occasional deep watering. Flower and vegetable beds, along with semi-established hardy plants, fall somewhere in between. In such cases, always allow the soil surface to dry between waterings. Furthermore, for plants with a developed root system, you can allow the top third to half of the estimated root system to dry between waterings. You can test for moisture content in loose soils with your finger, or use a moisture meter in any soils. Be gentle when inserting the meter into packed or rocky soil, as the tip can break off.

If your plants wilt, it is likely because the soil in the root zone is fully dry. Before watering, however, make sure the soil is indeed dry. Plants in wet soils can often show symptoms similar to dehydration, and overwatering can lead to root rot or plant failure.

Going on summer vacation? Hey, we can’t blame you. That said, you’ll need a plan for keeping the garden hydrated. The best option is a friend, neighbor, or family member that can cover for you. While they may not know the nuances of your garden, they can probably figure out that the wilting annuals need a drink immediately. If that is not an option, consider getting yourself a timer and think through your irrigation system. A water timer can be attached to the hose spigot and set to turn the water on at certain intervals. Set up an irrigation system so that it will cover the needs of your garden as best you can. We can help you develop a tentative plan and provide the necessary products.

Annuals and Perennials

Most annuals should be looking as good as they are going to right now. We usually have somewhat larger, developed annuals available in August—just in case you need a quick spruce up before a party or event. Continue to water and fertilize your garden as necessary. Many of the same issues that occur in July can continue throughout summer, so please visit our July gardening page for more information.

Heat loving perennials are at their best now. Most daisy-style flowers are available or are looking great in the garden—including asters, shasta daisies, and coneflowers. If you are adding new plants, remember that they will probably need small supplemental waterings in addition to what you are giving your garden beds in general. Continue to treat for hollyhock rust on your mallow family plants as necessary. Late August and September are great times for getting new ground covers started, whether in a recently cleared area or as a lawn replacement. As with any new planting, make sure it is kept moist until autumn rains set in.

Trees, Shrubs, and Fruit

Hopefully, fruit and flowering trees are recovering from any fungal problems they suffered in spring. Summer fertilizing can help to replace lost leaves, but August is generally the last month we recommend doing so. Continued applications of fungicide are usually not needed, as fungi usually spread slower in the dry summer air. Aphids can be a significant issue on larger trees, particularly maples and birches. If you’ve ever seen a tree “dripping sap” in unreasonable amounts during summer, it’s usually a sign of aphid activity (not sap).

It may be appropriate to do some pruning on certain fruit trees in August, especially water sprout removal. Water sprouts are the vertical growths, frequently found on apple trees, which shoot up after the fruit has started setting in spring. They are not usually desirable as future branches and can be removed. Major pruning can sometimes be done, but is usually put off until winter. Some authorities recommend major pruning on cherry and plum trees in summer to avoid certain diseases. Feel free to inquire about your tree’s particular needs.

Roses and other repeat blooming shrubs can benefit from continued fertilizing if you have not done so recently. They’ll also benefit from continued use of fungicide to keep black spot and mildew in check. Deadheading repeat bloomers can make for better, or at least tidier, reblooming. Examples of repeat bloomers include Hebe, Scallonia, Sistus, and Potentilla.

Vegetables

August means two things for vegetable gardeners. Early ripening tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers are starting to produce. The first of the garden beans are probably ready as well. August is also a great time for starting fall batches of many cole crops. In late August, greens and a new batch of peas can be started as well. Cole crops include broccoli, cabbages, and Brussels sprouts. Short season root crops, such as radishes and scallions, can be started now. Does it seem odd to be planting in the heat? Well, it will cool off soon enough, so get those plants growing!

Tomatoes are subject to a number of problems as they develop. Consistent, moderate watering is probably the most important thing you can provide for a healthy and bountiful harvest. This means letting the soil partially (but never completely) dry between waterings. Other than that, watch for leaf spotting symptoms that can indicate late blight or other diseases. Once identified, these can often be treated. Sometimes, thinning the leaves of thickly grown plants can allow better sun penetration and air circulation, lessening disease pressure. Appropriate sprays can also help, but please be sure to get a proper diagnosis before application. Blossom end rot, identifiable when the bottom end of the tomato turns mushy and brown, is caused by inconsistent soil moisture, wide temperature fluctuations, and/or a lack of calcium. The best way to ensure the presence of calcium is to add lime before you start your vegetables (yes, it is too late to do this now).

Your cucurbits (e.g. squash, cucumbers, etc.) are likely showing some powdery mildew by now. This is pretty normal. It appears as a powdery white substance on the top of leaves that, when rubbed off, reveals some damage to the leaf. Ensuring maximum sun and air circulation can limit the mildew, and you can use fungicides to treat as you see fit.

Lawn Care

Most of us are familiar with the basics of summer lawn care: mowing, watering regularly, and fighting those dandelions. We recommend that you avoid mowing your grass low to the ground. This can stunt the grass while allowing more light to reach the weeds in your lawn. Keeping the grass four inches high is generally a good starting point. Remember the old axiom on watering: one inch per week and only once per week. This works great for established lawns, but newly rooting seed or sod may need more frequent applications.

Many people have their sprinklers set to engage every day or every other day—but this is unnecessary and sometimes even detrimental, as the goal is to water deeply to encourage downward root growth. As for those dandelions, we sell tools specifically designed for pulling them out at the root.

Regular applications of fertilizer and lime on healthy lawns can help it to outcompete some weeds. There are herbicides available for those who are not having success fighting weeds in other ways.

While there are many different pests and diseases that can affect lawns, they are uncommon and do not warrant attention here. If you see symptoms such as dead spots, unusual growth rings, or other strange symptoms, feel free to check with us for a correct diagnosis and treatment.

Summer Houseplant Care

The main growing season for all plants is March through September. Daylight hours are longer and plants respond by pushing new growth. This is the time to increase watering and to start fertilizing. There are many types of fertilizers to choose from, but you will want to base your decision first on what state the plant is in.

If your plant is a flowering one, say an orchid, you would want to use a fertilizer for flowering. Conversely, if your plant is not a flowering one, but rather a foliage plant, you would want to choose a fertilizer with a profile for leaf growth.

Your decision to choose organic fertilizer or not is more about your personal preference, as the plant does not know the difference. Be sure to avoid over fertilizing. Salts and minerals can build up in the soil, causing problems down the road.

Your houseplants respond to increased hours of sunlight by increasing their photosynthesis. The production of food puts more demand on the plant’s need for water, which you can monitor by actually touching the soil. Stick your finger in the soil along the side of the pot and feel the soil to determine watering needs. This is a better method than a weekly watering program since so many variables occur in your home. For example, a plant placed in a hot sunny window or next to an air vent will dry faster than it will when placed near a window with only morning light or still air.

Houseplants can thrive outside in the summer. This is a great opportunity to give them a break from being cooped up all winter long. Use caution when moving your plants outside, as they will need to be slowly transitioned. The change from inside to outside can shock a plant. If you’d like to give it a go, remember that nighttime temps need to be mild-warm. Keep an eye out for leaf burn and the arrival of pests as well. Always know the plant’s requirements before moving them outside, and be sure to check them closely before bringing them back inside. Insects can travel indoors with the plant!