November Gardening

November is usually our last chance for easy digging in the garden. If your soil is already saturated or frozen, it is not recommended. Assuming it is not, finish any planting of hardy plants or dividing of perennials. If you have vegetable or annual beds that are empty, consider a cover crop or some mulch to protect the soil from compaction or erosion in rain.

Speaking of which, this is one of the best times for mulching. You can use bark, compost, leaves, or straw. This will help prevent the surface roots of your plants from freezing air while reducing weed growth. Compost is good for soil health, but only helps so much with weeds. Bark is very good for weed control, but avoid turning uncomposted bark into your soil (now or in spring) as it can limit the nitrogen that is available to your plants for some time. One to two inches of mulch is generally sufficient, and more than that is not better. Never place mulch so that it is touching the wooden stems of shrubs or trees.

The season is winding down, but your containers and window boxes don’t have to look like it. Clean out dead or dying annuals and replace them with cold season options. Pansies, dusty miller, kale, and many herbs look great as we enter the cold season. Miniature conifers and spring flowering bulbs are also great additions.

As stated before, this is probably your last good chance for any perennial planting and dividing. Lift, clean, and store your Dahlia and Begonia tubers. Our Dahlia Page has good instructions for lifting.

Lastly, don’t forget to mulch your perennials!

Many deciduous trees prefer to be pruned in late autumn or winter. Our December Tips page has a listing of examples. Please note that cherries and plums should be pruned in summer to avoid disease considerations. If you are unfamiliar with proper pruning techniques, consult our pruning page.

Dormant spraying—the application of particular pesticides while the plant is dormant—can start in November. While many gardeners wait until February, multiple applications throughout the winter are beneficial for plants with significant problems. Disease-prone fruit trees, roses, and lilacs often benefit from dormant spraying. Overwintering insect eggs can sometimes be controlled with other, oil-based dormant sprays. Remember, while dormant sprays are accepted for organic gardening practices, they can be dangerous to the applicator if misused. Always follow label precautions.

Many indoor flowers can help to beautify our indoor spaces during this time of year. Paperwhites and Amaryllis are great bulbs for forcing indoors. Poinsettias, holiday cacti, and other gift plants are available as well.

Don’t wait until freezing conditions to bring your houseplants back inside for the season! Before bringing them inside, be sure to check for insect infestations—especially on your Hibiscus, Abutilon, and Gardenias. Your plants may shed some leaves as they get used to lower light levels indoors, but don’t panic too much. You’ll just need to provide as much light as possible (consider supplementary grow lights) and try to be a moderate waterer.

It is too late for fertilizing your lawn and probably too late for seeding. If the weather is not too cold, sod installation may still be an option. Remove excess leaves from your lawn and either use them as mulch or discard them.

The only green vegetable that should be planted this late is kale. Existing cole crops (e.g. broccoli, cabbage, etc.), lettuce, and other greens can be protected with frost blanket or in a cold frame. If possible, harvest what you can before a hard freeze (i.e. temps significantly below freezing) and enjoy.

It’s also your last chance for autumn planting of garlic and onions for harvesting next year.