There are key characters you can use to identify adult BMSB and distinguish them from other, similar species—the distinct light bands on the dark antennae, their smooth “shoulders”, and the distinct banding pattern on their abdominal margins.

If all three characteristics are present on your Oregon specimen, it’s a BMSB. The common name, marmorated, refers to the color pattern of the insect—which vaguely resembles marble. Like other stink bugs, a foul odor may be produced by BMSB when they are disturbed.

Stink bugs spend the winter in a protected area (such as inside of your home) and then emerge to become active in early spring. Mating follows, and eggs are laid on the underside of host plants through early fall. In summer, nymphs and adults feed on plants, causing damage to a variety of fruits, vegetables, and flowering plants.

Stink bugs feed on peaches, apples, and soybeans—in addition to grapes, raspberries, snap beans, hazelnuts, cherries, peppers, tomatoes and many ornamental flowers. Black cherries, maples, Juneberry, hollies, and crabapples also act as host plants in natural areas. It is believed that stink bugs will thrive, not just survive, on many native plants as well.

In many cases, stink bug damage can be hard to see. For example, stink bugs have been observed feeding heavily on snapdragon plants, seeming to prefer the seed pods with no damage to the flower itself. On tomato and pepper plants, foliage stippling and fruit spotting may occur. In essence, the quality of fresh market fruits, vegetables, and nursery stock can be reduced due to the feeding habits of stink bugs.

If they do enter your home or garden, figure out how severe the infestation is to determine your best course of action and when to use it.

Control measures will be determined based upon the threshold set. It’s always a good idea to move from least invasive method upward. Early onset can be treated by hand picking. Put on some gloves to remove adults and nymphs from your plants. Once removed, drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Be sure to destroy clusters of light green, barrel-shaped eggs found on the underside of leaves as well. Introducing predators like ladybugs and green lacewings can help to control the population.

Commercially available stink bug traps are good for removing bugs from the area and to monitor concentrations. Traps should be put out in early April. You can also grow early crops of “sacrificial plants” (i.e. stink bug favorites such as sweet corn, amaranth, and okra). Plant them near your vegetable garden and when the trap-crops become infested with stink bugs, destroy them and the plants. Regardless of the method or product used, always follow the instructions and never use insecticides when beneficial insects are present.

Should those pesky bugs make their way into your home, hope is not lost. Try to locate the opening where they are gaining access. Typically, they emerge from baseboard cracks, window or door trim, and near exhaust fans or lights in the ceiling. Seal openings with caulk. Both living and dead bugs can be removed with the use of a vacuum cleaner.

Stink bugs will begin their search for warmer homes as cool, fall weather approaches. Sealing cracks around windows, doors, siding, utility pipes, and chimneys with silicone or silicone-latex caulk is the best way to stop the invasion. Repairing or replacing damaged screens on doors and windows can help as well.