Beets

Beets require full sun (at least six hours of direct sun) for good root development. Partial shade (at least four hours of direct sun) is sufficient for production of the greens. Beets prefer average, well drained soil with a pH between 5.8 and 7.0. Most soils should be amended with at least 1” of compost and lime before planting.

As with all root crops, beets are best grown from seed. Begin planting four weeks before the last frost date. In the Portland area, Ideal planting times April through June, and then again in September for fall and winter harvest.

Plant seeds 1⁄4” deep in rows 18‐24” apart. You may want to cover newly planted beets with floating row cover to prevent leaf miner and flea beetles. After 1‐2 weeks, thin seedlings so plants are 2” apart. In another 2 weeks, thin the plants to 4” apart. The plants pulled at this time will yield edible baby beets!

Beets can transplant form starts as well. Be sure to disturb the roots as little as possible and avoid pot-bound plants. Water-in transplants with a liquid seaweed mixture.

Beets prefer consistent, evenly moist soil. Avoid overhead irrigation to help avoid fungal diseases. Uneven watering can lead to pithy white rings in the roots.

Beets are heavy feeders that love phosphorus. You can scratch-in an all purpose organic fertilizer in the bottom of the rows before planting the seed. Side dress seedlings every 2‐3 weeks with the same fertilizer until greens are 4‐5” tall.

Beet greens are the most tender when harvested young. Older greens are fabulous steamed or sautéed like spinach or chard. Baby beet roots can be harvested 4 weeks after planting. Full sized beets are dug when roots are 1‐2” in diameter. Roots can become tough and woody when they get larger than 4” in diameter. Beet roots that are topped can be stored at 32°F  for 4‐7 months. Canning, freezing and drying are also great ways to store your beet crop.

Damping‐off occurs in cool, wet weather and can either prevent seedlings from emerging or cause seedlings to die. Replant new seeds in an area with better drainage, or add more compost and wait for warmer weather.

Cutworm can often mow down all of your seedlings in one night. Spinosad is an organic control for cutworms. Nematodes can help control the larvae.

Leaf miners are very common in beet leaves. Typically, damage appears as beige or white trails scrolling throughout the leaves. Leaf miners are tiny insects between the leaf tissues. The best control is to pick off all infected foliage at the first signs of miner trails. Cover your beds at planting time to prevent leaf miners. Horticultural or neem oil can smother eggs.

Aphid damage often appears as curled, twisted, and/or yellowed leaves. You may find colonies of green to yellow aphids on the undersides of the leaves and growing tips. Sticky sap on leaves and stems, along white aphid skeletons, can be quite prevalent. There are numerous sprays and control measures to help combat aphids.

Flea beetles chew dozens of tiny holes in the leaves. For prevention, cover new seed beds with floating row cover until plants are 8” tall. Dust with diatomaceous earth or spray with pyrethrin.

Mildews appear as white patches, preceded by reddish patches, on the leaves and stems. Both downy and powdery mildew are fungal diseases. Downy mildew can also cause roots to be misshapen with rough, cracked skin. Remove as much of the infected areas as possible. There are numerous fungicides listed for edibles, such as Serenade, that can prevent the spread of powdery mildew.

Root rot may appear as pale or yellowing leaves and stunted plants. Roots will be dry and black at the center. It is a soil fungus initiated by overwatering and/or very heavy soil. There is no recovery from root rot. Amend soil with at least 2” of compost and allow the area to become slightly dry between waterings to avoid root rot.

Snails and slugs leave large holes in leaves when they feed at night. They often leave iridescent trails on leaves and the ground. Slug baits and beer traps are just a few ways to control them.

Cercospora leaf spot appears as tan spots with red edges on the leaves. Wet, warm weather encourages this fungus. Avoid overhead irrigation and treat with a fungicide listed for edibles such as Serenade

Beet curly top virus causes leaves to be small, crinkled, and curl upward. The virus is transmitted by leaf hoppers and has no cure. Remove infected plants and debris. Replant beets in a new area.

Scab is a fungus that causes corky areas on the roots. The roots are still edible (simply cut out infected areas) but they will not store. The fungus can overwinter on dried leaves and roots so be sure to clear all beet material from the bed.