Peppers

Peppers require at least 7 hours of direct sun and rich, well‐drained soil. Sweet peppers prefer a bit of shade from the hottest sun in the peak of summer. Prepare the planting area by mixing 2‐3” of composted manure and lime into the top 4‐6” of the soil. Mix in an all‐purpose granular fertilizer and lime in the bottom of each planting hole.

You can start seeds indoors mid February through March, 6‐8 weeks before the desired transplanting date. Sow seeds 1⁄4” deep and cover with a fine layer of soil. Bottom heat will help them sprout faster. Transplant seedlings into 4” pots when they have two sets of true leaves. Harden off your seedlings two weeks before the desired transplanting date.

Peppers thrive in warm, dry weather and are best planted outdoors late May through June when soil reaches 65°F. It helps to warm the soil first by covering the planting area with 1‐2” of compost or a cold frame. Pepper growth is stunted by air temperatures below 55°F, so it is best to protect new plants with a cold frame, cloche, or other product until temperatures are consistently warmer. Set out plants 12‐18” apart in rows 2‐3’ apart. Water-in new plants with liquid seaweed or B1.

Keep new beds well weeded and slightly moist. You can cover new plantings with floating row cover for 3‐4 weeks to prevent flea beetles and other insects. Organic mulches can help heat the soil, retain moisture, and prevent blight. It may help to stake your plants to help support heavy fruit.

How much water your plants will require depends on the soil and weather. Peppers are somewhat drought tolerant, but yield best with a steady supply of moisture. Slow, deep (2‐3 gallons) waterings every week is ideal. A consistent water supply can help prevent blossom end rot. Drip irrigation is the best way to provide even moisture, and it will help prevent disease.

Peppers are medium to heavy feeders and benefit from having a mild liquid fertilizer every two weeks once the fruits begin to appear. Another option is to side dress plants once flowers appear with a composted manure.

Harvest when fruit has reached mature size and color. Any type of sweet pepper can be harvested when it is full sized. Harvest while still green to get green peppers. Cut fruit with a 1” stem for maximum storage time. Peppers can store 2‐3 weeks in the refrigerator. All peppers can also be dried, frozen, canned, or pickled.

Good gardening practices—crop rotation, drip irrigation, proper planting time, floating row covers and removal of entire plants when harvest is done—will help prevent many pests and diseases.

• Aphids are perhaps the most prevalent pest on peppers. Aphid damage often appears as curled, twisted, and/or yellowed leaves. You may find colonies of green to yellow aphids on the undersides of the leaves and growing tips. Sticky sap on leaves and stems, along white aphid skeletons, can be quite prevalent. There are numerous sprays and control measures to help combat aphids.
• Cutworm can often mow down all new transplants in one night. Spinosad is an organic control for cut worms.
• Snails and slugs leave large holes in leaves or eat new transplants when they feed at night. They often leave iridescent trails on leaves and the ground. Slug baits and beer traps are just two ways to control them.
• Flea beetles chew dozens of tiny holes in the leaves. For prevention, cover new seed beds with floating row cover until plants are 8” tall. Dust with diatomaceous earth or spray with pyrethrin.
• Spider mite damage appears as white, pin sized dots all over leaves, or as yellowing leaves. Tiny red mites will be on the under sides of leaves and webbing may be present along the main veins. Spider mites are most prevalent in hot, dry weather. Spray with insecticidal soap three times at 7 day intervals. Predatory mites, Cinnamite and pyrethrins are also effective.
• Early blight begins as dark brown spots ringed in yellow. The fungus overwinters in the soil and infection can be greatly reduced by avoiding overhead irrigation. Pick off infected areas and spray with copper or Serenade to help reduce the spread of the fungus.
• Tobacco mosaic virus appears as yellow, mottled, deformed leaves. There is no cure. Remove and destroy infected plants.
• Late blight is common in the cool wet conditions of spring. It appears as dark spots on leaves and stems which grow quickly. Avoiding overhead irrigation will greatly reduce the spread of this fungus, which overwinters in the soil. Copper and Serenade can help slow the spread of the fungus.
• Verticillium wilt first appears as yellowing leaves on one side of a stem. Cross sections of the stems near the base of the plant will show interior discoloring. There is no cure. Remove and destroy infected plants. Replant in a new area.
• Blossom end rot appears as brown spots on the end of the fruit. It is caused by a lack of calcium availability or water stress. Adding lime to the soil before you plant and providing consistent moisture can prevent the problem. Calcium sprays can also help.