Tomatillos & Ground Cherries

Tomatillos and ground cherries require at least 7 hours of direct sun and rich, well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Prepare the planting area by mixing 2-3” of composted manure into the top 4-6” of the soil. Mix an all purpose granular fertilizer and lime in the bottom of each planting hole.

You can start seeds indoors from mid February through March, 6-8 weeks before the last frost date. Sow seeds 1⁄4” deep and cover with a fine layer of soil. Bottom heat will help them sprout faster. Transplant seedlings into 4” pots when they have two sets of true leaves. Harden off your seedlings two weeks before the desired transplanting date.

Tomatillos thrive in warm, dry weather and are best planted outdoors from May through June, when soil is at or above 65°F. Covering the planting area with 1-2” of compost or a cold frame will help to warm the soil. It is best to protect new plants with a cold frame, cloche, or other product until temperatures are consistently warmer (mid May-June). Set out plants 2-3’ apart in rows 2-3’ apart. Water-in new plants with liquid seaweed or B1.

Keep new beds well weeded and slightly moist. You can cover new plantings with floating row cover for 3-4 weeks to prevent flea beetles and other insects. Organic mulches can help heat the soil, retain moisture, and prevent blight. Tomatillo plants can reach 3-4’ tall. It may help to stake, cage, or prune your plants to help support heavy fruit. Ground cherries reach about 18” tall and 2-3’ wide. Most often, they will not require additional support.

How much water your plants will require depends on the soil and weather. Tomatillos and ground cherries are drought tolerant, but yield best with a steady supply of moisture. Weekly, a slow, deep (2-3 gallons) watering is ideal. A consistent water supply can help prevent blossom end rot. Drip irrigation is the best way to provide even moisture while having fewer disease issues.

Tomatillos and ground cherries are medium to heavy feeders and benefit from having a mild liquid fertilizer every two weeks once the fruits begin to appear. Another option is to side dress plants with composted manure once flowers appear.

Fruits are ripe when the husks are full and turn brown. Fully ripe fruit falls to the ground, and can still be harvested before they start to rot.

Tomatillos can store 2-4 weeks at 45°F. They can also be frozen (once par boiled and pureed) or dried. Ground cherries are especially tasty when dried and can store up to three months in an airtight container. Fresh fruit can also be stored at room temperature for a few months. Of course ,large batches of salsa verde or other favorite recipes can be canned!

Good gardening practices—crop rotation, drip irrigation, proper planting time, floating row covers and removal of entire plants when harvest is done—will help prevent many pests and diseases.

• Aphids are perhaps the most prevalent pest on tomatillos. Aphid damage often appears as curled, twisted, and/or yellowed leaves. You may find colonies of green to yellow aphids on the undersides of the leaves and growing tips. Sticky sap on leaves and stems, along white aphid skeletons, can be quite prevalent. There are numerous sprays (insecticidal soap) and control measures to help combat aphids.
• Cutworm can often mow down all new transplants in one night. Spinosad or Sluggo Plus are organic controls for cutworms.
• Snails and slugs leave large holes in leaves or eat new transplants when they feed at night. They often leave iridescent trails on leaves and the ground. Slug baits and beer traps are just two ways to control them.
• Flea beetles chew dozens of tiny holes in the leaves. For prevention, cover new seed beds with floating row cover until plants are 8” tall. Dust with diatomaceous earth or spray with pyrethrin.
• Spider mite damage appears as white, pin-sized dots all over leaves, or as yellowing leaves. Tiny red mites will be on the under sides of leaves and webbing may be present along the main veins. Spider mites are most prevalent in hot, dry weather. Spray with insecticidal soap three times at 7 day intervals. Predatory mites, Mite X and pyrethrins are also effective.
• Early blight begins as dark brown spots ringed in yellow. The fungus overwinters in the soil and infection can be greatly reduced by avoiding overhead irrigation. Pick off infected areas and spray with copper or Serenade to help reduce the spread of the fungus.
• Tobacco mosaic virus appears as yellow, mottled, deformed leaves. There is no cure. Remove and destroy infected plants.
• Late blight is common in the cool, wet conditions of spring. It appears as fast growing dark spots on leaves and stems. Avoiding overhead irrigation will greatly reduce the spread of this fungus, which overwinters in the soil. Copper and Serenade can help slow the spread of the fungus.
• Verticillium wilt first appears as yellowing leaves on one side of a stem. Cross-sections of the stems near the base of the plant will show interior discoloring. There is no cure. Remove and destroy infected plants, then replant in a new area.
• Blossom end rot appears as brown spots on the end of the fruit. It is caused by a lack of calcium availability or water stress. Adding lime to the soil before you plant and providing consistent moisture can prevent the problem. Calcium sprays can also help.